street names in Mapnik Open source maps

I've been playing around with BCN, and enjoy the ability to import/export GPX files, and store map data offline, but I'm mostly looking for road maps for travel without data roaming on my Samsung Galaxy S. The street names are almost illegible on Mapnik OSM maps till you get to zoom level 18 or 19. In the desktop version, main streets have larger text, and in Navdroyd (also based on OSM), the street names are larger at every zoom level. So I imagine something can be done.